Wednesday, December 10, 2008

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Got spark? First check for spark. There are a few ways to do this. The easiest way is to remove the spark plug and put it back in the spark plug cap. Then ground it to the engine - you should be able to lay it against a non-painted portion of the engine. Make sure there is good metal-to-metal contact. In a semi darkened area, attempt to start the scooter. You should see a definite spark at the tip of the spark plug. It's hard to see in direct light. If the color of the spark is blue, that means it's a strong spark. A white color is less strong, and a yellow color is weak. Most scooter starting systems are a bit weak (compared to cars). Even a yellow spark should start your scooter just fine. Next, the spark must occur at the right time. Just about all scooters made since around 1980 have electonic ignition. These systems rarely can be set. This is good news. After working on maybe 50 scooters, I've never seen one go out of time. Scooters with points are another matter. You'll have to follow the timing procedure in the manual to get the timing correct. In general, the spark occurs just before the piston reaches the top of it's stroke. There is a slight delay between the spark plug fire and the fuel-air mixture ignition. That's why the spark occurs a little early. Most ignition systems have an advance unit build in, so that as the engine speeds up the time of the spark retards a little bit and helps the engine fire the mixture at the proper time.
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Assuming you have sufficient compression, try to squirt in a bit of starting fluid and then see if your scooter will start. If so, that's great! That means that you have sufficient compression and the proper spark. You should get the scooter to run for a second or so on starting fluid. If so, there's a good chance you can keep it running. One caution here - do not run your engine for very long on starting fluid because it's hard on the scooter engine.
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Next, you'll have to remove the carburetor and clean it. There are a low of tiny fuel and air passageways in the carb that must be clean it order for your scooter to run right. Carefully take the carb apart. This can be relative easy (on a 50cc scooter) or quite difficult (a Riva 180-200 has limited carb access and 8 separate hoses running to the carb). The carb has tiny passages that get gummed up. The scooter just will not run correctly if the carb is not completely clean, so take your time. I use a gallon container of carb dip (you can get a gallon at your local auto supply store for ~$10).
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motor scooter News From Around The World

XMAS 2008: Aprilia Balls

Tue, 9 Dec 2008 09:43:49 +0200
Aprilia basket ball
Motorbikers Christmas 2008 Ideas
Christmas 2008 Ideas



After all the festivities around Christmas, you'll need exercise. What better way than going on the basket ball court for a bit of one-on-one with an Aprilia branded basket ball??

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Second area motorist dies in scooter accident - Maryland Gazette

Wed, 03 Dec 2008 15:45:11 GMT

Second area motorist dies in scooter accident
Maryland Gazette, MD - Dec 3, 2008
By SEAN PATRICK NORRIS Staff Writer A Pasadena woman was killed Sunday, the second motor scooter rider to die in a crash in less than a week. ...



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Believe it or not, your Honda and Yamaha scoots do have a small transmission. It's hidden away in a small area near the rear wheel. Don't forget about the tranny oil! There is only about 200cc of oil here - a very small amount. Most scooters use standard high quality engine oil and some take gear oil. If your scooter takes engine oil, it should be changed fairly frequently. The gears put a lot of shear stress on the oil, reducing its effectiveness over time. It is definitely a pain to change this oil and add the new oil, but it must be done. If not, the oil will eventually turn to a thick dark, molasses like stuff. Your bearings and gears will be very unhappy, and they will eventually fail. I once bought a Elite 150 from a nice lady who didn't change the tranny oil. The tranny on this scooter sounded horrible when it was ridden. She was lucky it had not locked up the rear wheel when she was riding, which would have probably caused a big crash. I bought it for $20 because she didn't want to have the tranny fixed. When I took the transmission apart, it was really in bad shape. Several gears and a few of the bearings were destroyed. I got it going again, but the cost of labor and parts was over $200. All because $0.25 of oil had not been changed...
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Given that most scooters only take a quart of oil - what is the cost of a quart? Even the very best synthetic oil is only $5 a quart. If you have a 125/180/200cc Yamaha, you will also need a ~$6 oil filer. That's only $10! Is that cheap or what? As for oil, use a top quality oil made for smaller engines. I use a top quality synthetic oil (Castrol or Mobil One for instance). Remember that changing your oil is WAY cheaper than replacing your engine.
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Are Delhi's parking areas susceptible to terror strikes? - MSN India

Tue, 09 Dec 2008 11:19:00 GMT
New Delhi: Deftly manoeuvring my car, I squeezed it inside a packed parking lot in the capital's busy Nehru Place commercial complex. My eyes fell on rows of motorcycles and ...

BMW’s New Motorcycle Blog

Mon, 8 Dec 2008 12:29:19 +0200
Web Article
BMW logo
BMW have started a blog on their main site related to the BMW S 1000 RR motorcycle and the SuperBike championships.



You'll be able to see how Xaus is doing, live, plus read articles from the people who are involved in the race.



Three lucky winners of the first 200 registered users can a prize, and other blogs are invited to pitch in.

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